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Ready to jump into rug hooking?

The first thing you should do is subscribe to Rug Hooking Magazine. Most major libraries have them in the magazine section. Some book stores and Michael’s craft store carry the magazine also. I always have trouble finding them at Michael’s so you may have to search. You can also go to www.rughookingonline.com for more information.

Hoop or Frame
You will need an embroidery or quilting hoop or a set of Q-snaps. If you need to buy something, get the Q-snaps, they are easier to get on and off. You will need the smallest size that will hold your pattern in the center.

Most people start with hoops but progress to frames specifically designed for rug hooking after the first project or two. I made 3 chair pads and a 2 x 3 foot rug on wooden 14" quilting hoops. I broke 3 hoops on the rug. As I progressed, the loops filled up one side of the hoop while the other side had only the backing. I tightened it real tight to get it to hold. The uneven stress caused the hoops to crack. It was a wrestling match to get the hoop moved each time. I purchased a Puritan Frame and have not looked back since. The Puritan is the most popular and widely used frame.

Hook
You can get a hook for as little as $5.00-$8.00. There are fancier hooks out there, but the function is usually the same, the expensive ones are just prettier. Spend your time looking at your work, not the hook and you will never notice the difference.

There are some hooks out there with special handles to help people with arthritis or other problems. You will need to try each one to see if it is right for you. Ask other hookers to try their hooks, most people are more than happy to share their hook, particularly if it works well for them. One of my students took a crochet hook, cut the long handle off and molded a lump of polymer clay in her palm and pushed the hook into this customized handle and baked it. She has arthritis and her custom grip alows her to hook longer.

Backing
You need something to hook into. It can be burlap, linen, monk’s cloth (not the loosely woven stuff at the fabric store) or rug warp. See My Favorite Things in the Rug e-School for more detailed information.

Wool
You can buy 100% wool clothing at the thrift stores and cut them up or use yardage. Be sure to double check the label. Most fabric stores do not carry 100% wool anymore, most are blends. Be sure to wash them immediately. If you must wait, keep the clothing in the garage or your trunk until you can take them directly to the washing machine. My book, Dyeing Without Dye, explains in detail how to wash, rip and store recycled wool.

Cutter
You can work without a cutter for a while. You should buy a frame first. Sometimes the rug hooking store in your area will let you use their cutter if you purchase the wool at their store. The rest of your wool can be cut by hand.

Some hookers use a rotary cutter. I tried it but I was a miserable failure. I do not have much experience with rotary cutters so I had my daughter, who is a quilter, give it a try. The wool is more spongy than cotton and she had problems also, but if you have the equipment you can give it a try. I know a hooker or two who use this method.

I used a pair of small bladed scissors for several months before I got a cutter. You need to rip wool whenever possible to keep it on the straight of grain. When you use a wool cutter (sometimes called a stripper) you will still rip the wool into 3" wide strips before running it through the cutter. Until you have this piece of equipment, cut it by hand like the pioneer women did. Snip 1" or slightly less from the edge and rip. Cut with small bladed scissors in half, then cut each strip in half again. You end up with strips about 1/4” wide. Most wools need to be at least 1" wide

Pattern
You can purchase patterns but I encourage you to try to come up with your own. Most rug hooking stores and mail order vendors offer a wide variety of backings. Hook something small, such as a chair pad, on different backings to find out which you like the best.

Draw the pattern on paper. At most quilting stores and some fabric stores you can purchase a product called red dot. It’s with the interfacings and is very thin and see through. It has a red dot every inch all over the fabric. Place the red dot over your paper pattern and trace with a pencil or pen. Put the red dot centered over your backing and trace with a fabric pen such as a Rub a Dub or an industrial strength Sharpie marker. I avoid regular Sharpies because I have had some bleed later when I steam the piece.

Order a starter kit: You can order my starter to kit for a quick way to get up and running. Click here for more information. Add a hoop and you are ready to start. All the wool is already stripped in various sizes so you can get a feel for which size you prefer to hook.