|PRIMITIVE STYLE SHADING
Hooked with a larger cut
Uses fewer values, usually less than 4. Can be done with as little as
Changes from light to darker wool is abrupt, not as smooth as tapestry
Includes the use of textures. (Often one plaid can supply 2 or more values)
Direction of hooking more evident in this style.
This an example of primitive shading. Notice the
driveway area. It is shaded from darker at the bottom to lighter at
the top. I did not use a swatch, just pulled together various fabrics
that were similar in color and varied from light to dark.
||Another primitive "shading" example. The small blue
flowers appear to have some shading when you view the rug from a distance
because each petal is hooked with a different blue plaid. This is one
of the easiest ways to shade.
Note the shading on the daisy petals and
center. The center is shaded for shape but the petals are much more
loosely shaded. Some of these wools are an overdyed texture - something you
never see in tapestry shading. The leaves use various wools in a
random manner. No effort was made to shade.
**This picture takes a while to load but you can see every loop.
||These rag doll feet are shaded with a few shades of as-is
grey heather and black.
TAPESTRY STYLE SHADING
Hooked with a small cut so that many values can be used.
Hooked with swatches - jar dyeing method - 6 or more values
Smoother transition from light to dark. Somewhat more forgiving on the
placement of each loop.
||This rose was hooked with a 10 shade swatch. Note the
use of the monarch color in various places in the rose and in the leaves.
This hooking uses traditional
finger shading and mock shading.
||This is all #3 cut but not all of the shading is done with a
formal swatch. The pear and apple in particular use a swatch for the
majority of the area but both have unrelated wools added for interest.
can use your scrap bag even for formal tapestry shading.