Whipped Edge

Whipped Edge

Measure the total length of whipping you will be doing. For instance, measure the length and the width, add them together and multipy the total by 2. To get the number without the math, use a sewing measuring tape. Measure around the outside of your rug. Divide this total by 4. The answer is the number 3-ply needlepoint yarn lengths you will need. The standard length of this yarn is about 5 feet, so

1 piece of yarn 5 foot long = 4" - 6" of whipping.

You may have to adjust this guideline to reflect your personal results. But this is a good place to start.

Use 100% wool yarn. In this example I used a thick single ply but I often use 3-ply needlepoint yarn. It can create an interesting edge because you can separate it and combine it with other colors. This is often the only solution when you cannot match a color. For instance, if you can't find the perfect green, use several greens that are a close match. Take the plys apart and reassemble them into a 3 to 6 ply yarn and whip the edge with the new combination. Including one strand of an accent color makes a nice look also.

Using a jumbo tapestry needle (gold needle with a large eye), you can whip the edge of the rug with cut wool strips. This is a great way to match a border color that cannot be duplicated in yarn. Experiment with different widths of strips until you find the size that works best for you. You will not need to stitch in every hole like you do with yarn, but you will need to work more carefully so that the strips are not twisted.

Start on the straight edge about 1" from the corner and work towards the corner. Make sure that you will not run out yarn before you can complete the corner. Here I am starting a new piece of yarn before I work into the corner. Secure the end of the yarn or strip by running the needle through the edge in two different directions.

You will need to make a stitch in every hole and may need to make two in one hole every now and then. You want to make the whipping thick enough to completely cover the backing. Pull firmly and evenly for a neat edge. Whip up to the point where the row you are whipping in is in line with the row on the opposite edge -- this is the hole that is common to both sides.

As you approach the corner make several short stitches near the tip of the corner. This will help to hide the backing at the corners.

Next make a few stitches on the opposite side to frame in the corner.

Make a large stitch over the corner and pull it tight to shape the corner.

Now make stitches from one side to the other. You can shorten the stitch by inserting the needle into the thick corner along the center stitch as you work your way up. If you gradually shorten the stitches as you work toward the center, you will have a nice mitered look.

If the miter does not come out as neat as you would like, (your corners will improve with practice) take one large stitch over the corner to hide the mess.

Corners are tricky, but they are important for a neat finish. If it doesn't work out the first time, carefully snip the yarn, pull it out and start over.

Now your whipping is done, but don't quit yet. Be sure to steam the rug again and create a label for your rug. See the instructions at Don't Miss the Last Step - Label Your Rugs!

Return to Rug e-School.

*The small white spots on the finished whipping are loose threads from the binding and will be snipped later. If you have white spots because your whipping was not close enough, use a single ply and touch up the areas that need more yarn. Also try moving the yarn with your fingers to cover up the open areas.

Tip: Whip the edge up to the point where both sides share the same hole. Now skip the corner. That's right, just ignore it for now. Continue whipping down the next side. Later when all four sides are whipped return to the corners and whip each corner. You have better odds of making each corner similar because you are doing one right after the other. This tip comes to me from Susan Adams of Lima, Ohio, one of my at home studio students. Thanks, Susan.